A Few Days in Tbilisi - Georgia

in #hive-16377210 days ago

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Hello everyone. During the second week of our trip to Georgia, we arrived in Tbilisi, the capital. We traveled here from Batumi by bus. The journey took approximately six hours and the ticket price was 15 dollars per person. Since train travel is two to three times more expensive, we opted for the bus. It was also more convenient for our schedule. We set off at 9 am and arrived at Tbilisi bus station around noon.

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We rented a short-term apartment to stay in Tbilisi. From the bus station we called a Bolt taxi and headed to the apartment. However, things didn’t go as smoothly as we had hoped. Frankly the apartment did not meet our expectations. The nightly rate was 22 euros and it was located in the city center, close to the old town. But it turned out to be more of a guesthouse. The sound insulation was terrible and we could hear and see everyone. It felt like living in a courtyard. This setup didn’t suit us. The main issue however, was the internet. The speed was around 2–3 Mbps, which was insufficient for us. A good internet connection was essential for our work, so we had to leave. If you don’t need reliable internet, the place might be fine. But it wasn’t suitable for us.

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We were quite tired after starting our journey early from Batumi, so we began searching for a new place. I checked Airbnb, but the monthly rentals there were quite expensive, ranging from 600 to 800 dollars. Long-term rentals were more affordable but usually required a minimum of six months. After two days of searching we finally found an apartment on the ground floor of a five-story building. The entrance was a bit old, but it was practical for us. The internet connection was strong and it was about a 10–15-minute bus ride to the city center. The neighborhood was a bit nostalgic and colorful. Supermarkets and shopping centers were also nearby and overall, we were satisfied.

Our plan was to explore the area thoroughly, starting with a meal at a restaurant in a historic building. We found a place called IaSamani Bar and Restaurant, which had great reviews. We enjoyed a pleasant meal in a historic atmosphere on the second floor.

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The entrance to the restaurant was impressive, with high ceilings and a mirror directly opposite. The restaurant was actually located on the first floor, though I initially thought it was on the second. Inside, we were greeted by a vibrant and vintage atmosphere. There were several rooms, each with its own ambiance. But we chose the most brightly lit and comfortable one. The restaurant is housed in an old building, carefully restored to maintain its historic charm, creating a delightful atmosphere. The menu offered both Georgian and European cuisine.

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We placed our first order: chicken with pomegranate sauce, a smoothie, a closed khachapuri and a salmon-avocado salad. All the dishes were delicious. For the main course we tried Tashmidi, a sweet-and-sour pork dish served with cherries, greens and mashed potatoes. The mashed potatoes came with cheese, creating a wonderful harmony. We also tried a unique kharcho, which unlike the classic version, was made with cheese and kashar. It had a fantastic sauce and tender pork, offering a different but delightful flavor. Georgian cuisine is usually paired with wine, but since it was midday, we opted for smoothies instead. The total cost of the meal, including all the dishes, was about 50 euros. I should mention that the portions were really large, so ordering this much food wasn’t necessary. One main dish and a salad would suffice, as the portions are quite filling.

After the meal we left the restaurant and began walking towards Tbilisi’s old town. We passed by a synagogue and walked through old houses until we reached the riverside. The old town offers so many places to explore that it would take at least five days to fully experience it. In my opinion, Tbilisi offers even more to tourists than Batumi. There are currency exchange offices, car rental services, restaurants and cafes on nearly every corner, providing options for everyone.

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In Tbilisi you’ll find numerous wine shops, souvenir stores and shops selling fresh fruit juices. You can also enjoy a boat tour on the river, which costs just 30 lari (around 10 euros) and lasts about 40 minutes. These tours are usually held in the evening, offering a beautiful experience with the city lights as a backdrop.

In Freedom Square I noticed an affordable cable car ride, priced at roughly €1 and payment can even be made with a bus card. The cable car ascends to a hill where there appears to be a stunning fortress. It looks quite impressive. You can also opt for city tours on similar vehicles, which can be a delightful way to explore the city without walking in the summer heat.

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Close to the old town, there is a museum that feels much like a botanical garden. Tickets are priced at 3 lari (approximately 1 euro). If you enjoy museums, this is a must-visit. It’s also a fantastic spot for photography.

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In the old town there are historic baths sourced from natural hot springs. It’s advised not to stay in the baths for more than 15 minutes due to the high water temperature. According to legend, Tbilisi’s name originates from a bird that died here because of the hot springs. The name Tbilisi comes from the Georgian word for warm. Prices start at 15 lari, but VIP services can make it more expensive. The area is very green and provides a beautiful setting. These baths are highly popular in Tbilisi and it’s common to see couples taking wedding photos here.

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Love Bridge is another intriguing site. It’s adorned with countless locks and as you cross it, you can see a refreshing stream below. Strolling between the gardens, cafes and bars is quite enjoyable. Here, you can also find ice cream made with wine—a unique treat available only in Tbilisi.

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The wine-flavored ice cream does indeed carry the taste of wine, though it’s slightly more tart like regular ice cream. The wine used is Kindzmarauli, a semi-sweet red wine and my personal favorite. If you’re a fan of semi-sweet red wines, you must try it. The ice cream has a subtle wine flavor but doesn’t really provide the same effect as drinking wine. The vendor mentioned adding a small amount of wine, but it’s not potent enough to have a significant impact.

About 10 minutes after eating the ice cream, I felt a slight sensation similar to drinking Kindzmarauli, though without the full effect, as this wine is quite strong. I wouldn’t recommend it for children, but for wine lovers this is a unique experience to try in Tbilisi.

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We crossed the bridge near the hotel, enjoying breathtaking views on both sides. The mountains, river and old town create a mesmerizing scene. If you’re looking for a centrally located, reasonably priced accommodation, this hotel is a great choice. Walking along the bridge and exploring the old town and its surroundings is a delightful experience.

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Prices in Tbilisi particularly in central restaurants, have risen recently. Things were much cheaper in the past, but overall, it’s still more affordable than Batumi. Despite the slight increase in prices, Tbilisi remains a fantastic travel destination.

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We continued walking toward the old town discovering more of Tbilisi’s beauty. If you’re planning a trip to Tbilisi, I highly recommend exploring this area.

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I've been living in Tbilisi for about half a year now and I can safely say I despise it. ;^)

It felt like living in a courtyard.

I somewhat expect that when it comes to the rentals here, for short-term that is. Especially with how old a lot of the buildings are. The other day in Vake one huge Soviet era building caught fire and the entire rooftop collapsed and the entire building cannot be used for the time being. Homes here are either old, or heavily neglected. A few more modern places being built around Vake and Saburtalo.

The prices for those rentals are insane though, especially when monthly rent here ranges from as low as 350 dollars. Mine is just $400 in Saburtalo.

How did you find the traffic/Americanisation with how car reliant the city is? Things are even more chaotic lately with the protests going on.

Thank you for your comment. It's very valuable that you've been living in Tbilisi for about half a year and are sharing your experiences so honestly. I absolutely agree with your observations about the old buildings and their neglect. The fire in Vake was saddening and shows how serious this problem is. 😔

Regarding the issue of traffic and Americanization, I also agree with the chaos created by Tbilisi's car dependency. The fact that the public transportation system cannot fully keep up with such a car-focused city and remains inadequate is one of the main reasons for this problem. The city's infrastructure and planning are struggling to respond to this increasing number of vehicles. Thank you again for sharing your experiences and observations in such detail.

The city's infrastructure and planning are struggling to respond to this increasing number of vehicles.

Yeah in other areas outside of Old Tbilisi the car dependency is insane. Especially with Vake not having its own metro line. And Saburtalo's metro line only goes through the middle of the district. It's all Soviet built as expected. I wouldn't say the metro is bad, probably the better mode of transport. Especially recently with how chaotic it is with the protests. Even in Saburtalo as I type this there's endless sires, whistles, and shouting.

I think it can be a nice place to explore, not the city particularly but the country. But the more time I spend here, the more I think Armenia was the better, lesser-known neighbour.

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Thanks so much 🤗

You are very welcome @ellie-mai! it was well deserved. ☀️
Keep up the great work 💪

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Oh! I love the berries! YOu can choose what you like. How much is that?

So many berries, so little time! 😄