Hello my friends 😍 Last month, I visited the charming town of Fiesole located near Florence.I absolutely love this place and I want to both explore it myself and share it with you. It’s the perfect escape from the crowds and tourists in Florence. Originally founded by the Etruscans, Fiesole later became part of the Roman Empire. At one time it even had a rivalry with Florence, but eventually Florence took control. Beyond its historical significance, Fiesole has a peaceful and serene vibe. Just what you need after the hustle and bustle of Florence.
If you ever visit Florence, I highly recommend setting aside half a day for Fiesole. You can explore its historical sites and enjoy a cup of coffee while taking in the breathtaking views. Regular bus services connect Florence to Fiesole, so there’s no need to worry about taxis or renting a car. It’s an easy and convenient trip.
The stones here are remnants of the ancient Etruscan walls of Fiesole. You can clearly see massive, monumental sections of Etruscan construction built with enormous stones. At the base of the walls, you’ll notice large rectangular blocks from the Etruscan period, dated to the 1st century bc according to archaeologists. Above these, Roman additions made of smaller stones continue the structure.
Fiesole’s main attraction is undoubtedly its archaeological park. I visited the park, which is situated just above the ancient walls. You can even touch the Etruscan and Roman stones in the park free of charge. Walk down to them and listen to the whispers of history. Imagine: centuries ago, human hands touched and placed these stones.
Afterward I headed to Fiesole’s central square for a coffee break. Sitting there, sipping my coffee, I felt a sense of calm. This place is peaceful and uncrowded, making it a unique escape. You can soak in its tranquil and historic atmosphere, letting yourself drift into Italy’s serene past.
As I mentioned earlier, Fiesole is an ancient town with a rich history. It was home to Etruscans, Gauls, Romans, Lombards and Carolingians before becoming part of Florence in the 5th century.
Once Fiesole was a major city and a center of the Etruscan state. You might know that Etruscan cities were often built on hilltops and Fiesole is no exception. Back then, the area where Florence now stands was just a river port. Imagine: Fiesole was a bustling metropolis, while Florence was merely a small settlement.
When Florence conquered Fiesole, the town became a suburb. Despite its deference to Florence, Fiesole continued to see its conqueror as an occupier. Today the square and the cathedral reflect Fiesole’s rich and varied past.
From Fiesole you’re treated to spectacular views of Florence, including a clear sight of the famous cathedral dome. These hills have been a favored residential area for Florence’s nobility and wealthy foreigners since the 17th century. Even today, Fiesole is considered one of Florence’s most exclusive areas, with many private villas and luxury hotels.
I walked to the cathedral, which is dedicated to Saint Romulus. Saint Romulus is a fascinating figure with much to tell about. Inside, the church exudes a Romanesque atmosphere and houses a variety of medieval and Renaissance art pieces.
Since no one was inside, I wandered freely, taking photos without interruption. It was a peaceful experience.
Around the square, you’ll find remnants of ancient civilizations, though some are less visible today. Many can still be visited for free. I visited the Garibaldi archaeological site, which features excellent explanations to help you understand what you’re seeing. While a bit neglected, the site is atmospheric enough to immerse yourself in its ancient charm.
The atmosphere of an archaeological park helps us grasp the passage of time. Seeing ancient stones side by side with lush, green grass is a vivid reminder that while ages and civilizations come and go, nature continues to thrive. I hope this greenery remains a lasting presence on our beautiful planet.
At the Archaeological museum, you can see tombs from the Lombard period. These tombs have provided scientists with valuable insights into the Lombards way of life and culture. And guess what? These discoveries were made right here in Fiesole. It’s incredible to think that the Etruscans, Romans and Lombards all lived here, each leaving their mark on this land.
One of Fiesole’s unique features is the chance to touch ancient stones in its small parks. In photos, you’ll notice Etruscan remnants scattered throughout the town’s streets, squares and gardens. If you enjoy wandering through historic streets, admiring balconies, door knockers and gardens, Fiesole is perfect for such leisurely explorations.
I decided to visit the archaeological park and museum. The park features one of its most iconic sights: the ancient Roman theater. This theater is still in use today, hosting classical music concerts and theater performances during the summer. If you’re in Florence during this time, I highly recommend checking Fiesole Theater’s event calendar for a unique cultural experience.
One aspect I appreciated about the park is its accessibility. It’s well-suited for visitors with disabilities and families with strollers. You can explore comfortably, even with a wheelchair or a stroller and the park is often uncrowded.
The temple area of the park is more intricate. It’s a Roman temple with foundations dating back to the Etruscan era. If you look closely, you can see ancient Etruscan steps integrated into the structure. However, this area can be a bit confusing due to the lack of detailed information panels. Still, walking among stones that have witnessed millennia of history is awe-inspiring in itself.
I eventually returned to where my journey began: the ancient walls. Here’s an interesting fact: Leonardo da Vinci once searched for a high point in these hills to test his flying machine. It’s said he launched his assistant from one of these spots and the assistant managed to glide for about a kilometer. Stories about the assistant’s fate vary, though.
Next I explored something more entertaining. An ancient fitness club. Fiesole features a well-preserved ancient sports and health complex. What now appears to be a simple grassy field was once a bustling gymnasium. Nearby, there’s a thermal complex with a surprisingly large pool.
One curious observation: in the free archaeological area (the Garibaldi site), the explanations were concise yet clear, helping visitors understand the ruins. However, in the paid museum, the approach felt more like figure it out yourself. While this might appeal to those with prior knowledge of archaeology, it could leave others puzzled, which I found a bit disappointing.
Moving on to the thermal complex, I found a small explanation panel describing the panoramic view. Climbing on the ancient stones is understandably prohibited, but you can walk on the grass. After a short rest, I immersed myself in the atmosphere of the Roman Baths.
When performances are held here, a modern stage is set up to preserve the historical elements while providing a space for contemporary events. I can only imagine the emotions of artists performing in such a historic venue. It must be such an honor.
The Archaeological museum in Fiesole holds an impressive collection, including artifacts from ancient times and pieces from the Lombard period. Meanwhile, Florence’s archaeological museum features an Egyptian collection. Both museums are incredibly valuable, yet they often go underappreciated.
Near the entrance to Fiesole Archaeological Park, you’ll also find the Bandini Museum. Though small, it’s fascinating, focusing on medieval and Renaissance art.
Finally I headed to the St. Francis Monastery. As we approached, we came across a platform offering a spectacular panoramic view. It felt like everything was within reach. Inside the monastery, there’s a small shop without a seller. Prices are listed and you leave payment in a box, relying on honesty.
Descending a narrow staircase, we reached a beautiful inner courtyard. You can peek into the monastery cells through iron bars. There’s also a small chapel. A peaceful spot for prayer and a museum showcasing the church’s belongings, books and garments, although it was closed.
And now, it’s time to say goodbye. Thank you for reading. I wish you a wonderful morning, day, evening and weekend. Take care.
