很多年前,人們只知道在台北松山有個在地人在逛的夜市,叫做饒河街夜市,饒河街旁邊就是基隆河,基隆河兩邊的居民往來需要靠橋梁,於是陸陸續續建了幾座橋,在原住民泰雅族認為,彩虹是祖先變成的,在天上守護著子孫,每當彩虹出現時,必有人死,必可聽到雷聲,雷聲即是祖靈的呼喚,被呼喚的人要放下俗世的恩怨,並與人和好,才能走過彩虹,迎接祖靈,否則,走在彩虹橋時,就會從橋上跌落,在電影賽德克巴萊也有提到彩虹橋。
彩虹橋的命名和泰雅族神話並無關係,是因為S型的曲線橋體像是彎彎的彩虹的形狀,鮮紅色拱型樑柱結構,粉紅及淡藍色地磚和木質欄杆,讓它成為夜市附近的知名地標,只開放人及腳踏車通行,所以,不時可見行人悠閒漫步橋上,當夜晚時分,彩虹橋上燈影投射,也別有一番風味,當然,它也為兩岸居民提供往返內湖、饒河街夜市及松山火車站的快速捷徑,近年來這裡也變成一些藝文活動的展演地點,讓這裡增添不少文藝色彩。
某個傍晚,和朋友打算去夜市買些小吃,假如不需要排隊的話,饒河街夜市街口的福州世祖胡椒餅是我們的選項之一,人們都說它是饒河街必吃美食,但是對已經吃過無數次的我們,只有不排隊的時候,才會考慮它,烤得又香又酥脆,口感微辣的胡椒餅,冷掉的話,就沒那麼好吃了,但是來來往往那麼多攤商,還屹立不搖的它,有著太多的死忠顧客,它應該會一直存在這裡。
和朋友坐在河岸邊,一邊吃著微辣的胡椒餅,一邊看著天邊的晚霞,當夕陽漸漸西下,天空中橙紅色的霞光映襯著彩虹橋,彷彿橋身被染上了一層金色的色彩,和朋友不知所云的閒聊,我記著幾年前還在這裡,遙望著台北101的跨年煙火,雖然離得很遠,但是沒有高樓阻擋視線,還是看得很舒服,因為不用人擠人,隨著天色越來越暗,彩虹橋周邊的燈火也點亮起來,但夜市的喧囂聲傳不過來,這裡真是一個發呆放空的好地方啊。
Many years ago, people only knew about a local night market in Songshan called Raohe Street Night Market, located right next to the Keelung River. Residents on both sides of the river relied on bridges for commuting. According to the indigenous Tayal tribe, rainbows were believed to be ancestors transformed, guarding their descendants from above. Whenever a rainbow appeared, it was thought that someone had passed away, accompanied by the sound of thunder, which was believed to be the call of the ancestors. Those called were urged to let go of worldly grievances and reconcile with others to peacefully cross the rainbow bridge and meet their ancestors. Otherwise, they risked falling from the bridge, as depicted in the movie "Seediq Bale".
The Rainbow Bridge's name has no connection to the Tayal tribe's myth. It's named after its S-shaped arch, resembling the curve of a rainbow. With its bright red arches, pink and light blue tiles, and wooden railings, it has become a well-known landmark near the night market. It's only open to pedestrians and cyclists, so you often see people leisurely strolling across it. As night falls, the lights on the Rainbow Bridge create a unique ambiance. Of course, it also serves as a quick shortcut for residents commuting between Neihu, Raohe Street Night Market, and Songshan Train Station. In recent years, it has also become a venue for various cultural and artistic events, adding a touch of artistic flair to the area.
One evening, my friends and I decided to head to the night market to grab some snacks. If there wasn't a queue, Fuzhou Sezu Black Pepper Buns at the entrance of Raohe Street Night Market was one of our options. People say it's a must-try delicacy at Raohe Street, but for us who had eaten it countless times, we only considered it when there was no line. The crispy and fragrant black pepper buns with a hint of spiciness are best enjoyed hot. Despite the many vendors around, it remained standing, attracting a loyal customer base. It's likely to remain here for a long time.
Sitting by the riverside with friends, munching on some mildly spicy pepper buns, and watching the evening sky. As the sun slowly sets, the sky turns into shades of orange and red, casting a beautiful glow on the Rainbow Bridge, giving it a golden hue. Engaging in random chatter with friends, I reminisce about being here a few years back, watching the Taipei 101 New Year's fireworks from afar. Despite the distance, with no tall buildings blocking the view, it was still quite enjoyable, without the hustle and bustle of crowds. As the sky gets darker, the lights around the Rainbow Bridge start to illuminate, but the noise from the night market doesn't reach us. This place truly is a perfect spot to unwind and let your mind wander.
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