I’m sure you have all seen stunning images and time-lapses of auroras in the arctic. Seeing them is high on many people’s list of things they would like to do, and that’s easy to understand given how dream-like it seems in the pictures and videos. But auroras can be quite rare, as quite a few conditions need to be met in order to see them.
First, you'll need to be above the Arctic circle, then you'll need to be there during winter, as in the summer-half of the year you'll have the midnight sun instead. Then there needs to be a cloudless day, which itself can be rare at times, especially on the coasts of Norway. Even then, the chances of auras forming are typically just 25% on any given day. Thus, you may need to spend a few weeks if you plan on going there in order to see the aurora.
But if you do, you may be rewarded with this experience that I had this last week:
Travelling to Northern Norway
This last week was mostly spent at Bardufoss, a tiny place in Northern Norway. Its proclaimed 2500 inhabitants are even too much, as many don't reside there on a permanent basis. With a city center so small that you'll miss it if you blink whilst driving past, and a local taxi service where "the guy" who is running it may be at home watching TV when you call to ask for a cab, and ask you to wait 15 minutes for him to watch the end before getting in the car, it is seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Just perfect for seeing auroras though! Although small, it is home to a lot of Norway's military where my company also has a presence.
Arriving in a cold, calm, and cloud-free winter-wonderland was also a sight and experience to behold. I had never been to the arctic during winter before, only during summer. My planned holidays there are usually meant for long days of hiking, where having the midnight-sun and comfortable temperatures for hiking is more ideal than short days, pitch-black nights, and negative 25-30 degrees.
But the cold creates a unique atmosphere different from what I usually get at my cabin in southwest Norway. So immediately upon exiting the plane, I felt like being in "adventure-mode"😎.
Anticipation and effort is half the enjoyment
It must be said that while it felt magical to see the lights come and go while moving across the skies, the sight itself was only half the experience. The real thrill lied in the anticipation, preparation and adventure of going out to see it, not knowing whether I would get lucky or not.
Immediately after I had picked up the rental car (wasn't going to rely on the taxi-guy!) and checked into the Hotel, my mind was set that I would do whatever I could to see the Northern lights.
So I downloaded an app to help track the conditions for seeing them and began asking the locals as well as my colleagues who currently live and work in Bardufoss about what locations nearby would be good with regards to light conditions, view and access.
Spending this time to prepare and make plans of course helped set up expectations. To then drive out into the pitch black night in an unknown place
I was recommended to drive a road going up towards a mountain-side right out of town as that would both get me away from light pollution while also giving a decent view. It was fun to find the snow-covered road leading up and wondering if my car would make it. Of course the road was not lit, so heading up the hills among 2 meter tall snow fans and snow-covered trees on each side made you feel like going out into nowhere . I eventually found a decent place to park the car and wait to see if the Northern lights would appear.
An hour went by and nothing happened. Despite the perfect conditions, I didn't get to see anything the first day/night. Reluctantly I went back to the hotel to get some sleep, as I was going to have an early meeting the next day. Of course, I couldn't help but look around while I was driving back, looking for any signs that the auroras could come after all.
While disappointing, that made me even more eager to see it the next day. As the clock passed 20:00, the app signaler that there was a good chance of seeing it! Having been only 18% likelihood the previous day, it now showed 33%.
So I went back to the same place that I had been the day before. And sure enough, I got lucky!
While the sight was fascinating, it was the excitement of seeing them suddenly arrive after having been waiting and anticipating them for so long that proved to be the real experience. I doubt I would have enjoyed it as much had I simply been there at a cabin and someone told me to look outside to see it. Working for it and being uncertain about whether or not I would get to see it made it feel so much more special.
It must be said that while the pictures look spectacular, in reality the colors were not quite as green as seen in the image. That's because the cameras are more senstitive to those portions of the spectrum of the light while also taking in more light to generate the image. So while the colors are what make the pictures look amazing, the sight and experience was made special more by the fascination of seeing them come and go seemingly out of nowhere, and the excitement of finally seeing them after searching and waiting.
Myself, I enjoyed the stay at the idyllic resort perhaps even more. With a beautiful view from the hotel-cabins, perfect ski-tracks right outside leading straight into a well lit up path for cross country skiing, as well as a pool, sauna and outdoor jacuzzi. I could have stayed here for a while!
How about you? have you ever seen the northern lights?
