I don't mean to brag, but I managed to topple 50+ years of authoritarian rule with my partner in December... Okay, that might not be TOTALLY true, I'll leave that to you to decide.
It all started late October, when we found ourselves staying at the 5-star resort known as the Jordan-Syria border. Stray dogs, friendly men with AK-47s, and a cozy metal bench to sleep on— I don't want to flex too hard, but there was everything a girl could ask for!
I suppose that whole debacle is really a story to tell on its own someday, but the ending of it is relevant. After 10 days of being stuck, and lots of beyond weird experiences, the Assad government did not process my visa. Since I really wanted to go to Syria and meet my love's family, there was nothing to do except manifest the demise of my impeders as I went back to Jordan.
Is it a coincidence that the government fell less than a month later and I was able to waltz into Syria in the process? I suppose it is up to you to pass judgement on such things.
So, what's post-Assad Syria like? I have no idea how to even address that, so please do not ask me.
I can tell you that I don't balk at the sight or sound of AK-47s anymore. That I'm as used to seeing them as I was the firearms the police carried in the USA. That I feel as safe as anyone else here, despite my nationality. AND that the coffee shops work, and they are lovely! Shortly after arriving, we popped out for a visit to a mall to satisfy some cravings.
I've never liked malls, but it sure was interesting to explore this one a bit! Before walking through, we sat at Pascucci for a coffee and argille (hookah). The menu, of course, was in Arabic. Our server spoke some English though, answering my Arabic "thank you!" with "you're welcome" in English when he dropped off our drinks.
We both got a caramel macchiato with double espresso. This was served a bit differently than I'm used to, but it was delicious! I thought that it was very bitter (which I like, no problem) until I got near the end... apparently, I was supposed to stir the caramel in with the spoon!
Is this normal where you are from? In the US the caramel is integrated in with the milk, which there is also a tad more of. Maybe I'm just used to America's desire to make the sugar POP.
This thing was SHHHAAA-WEEEET!
I thought at first that the ice cream was vanilla, but after Yaz and I comparing tasting notes, we decided it was something else. Custard maybe?
Combined with the white chocolate drizzle smothering every inch of the fudgy warm brownie, it's no surprise that I didn't notice all the caramel was at the bottom of my drink for a while.
It had been a bit since we went outside, what with the falling government and uncertainty, so it was time to enjoy something decadent. Along with our sugar horde, we also ordered watermelon mint argille. Good combo!
As we chatted and enjoyed our smoke and brownie (reminds me of that Austin Powers movie lol) I got down to some people watching. I saw all sorts of humans flooding through the main doors of the mall, which my seat had a thought-out view of. I'm nosy.
It was just before Christmas, a time when any mall would be beyond crazy in the USA. Of course, most people here do not celebrate Christmas since the majority of the country is Muslim.
Big grocery stores are not a thing in this region really, they are seen as something fancy or made for tourists. Therefore, the only one around this neighborhood is in the mall. I watched as a few people pushed full carts from it to the exit.
I saw women in various clothing, wearing everything from niqab (which covers all but the eyes) to skinny jeans and hoodies.
Not much really stood out to me as culturally shocking until some men who work for the interim government came through the doors. Every man who came through the entrance was checked for guns, and it was no different for them.
Like it was totally normal, they passed their AK's over to security, who tucked them into an unlocked cubby beneath the desk. WHAT?! There were several aspects of this that my mind couldn't quite comprehend. What a different society!
We finished our coffee and paid up, ready to walk to mall a bit. I wanted to scan that grocery store for some of the things I crave but can never find over here, and to just see what the mall was like in general. It was quite different, although still not a place that would call to me.
Back in October I saw many members of the various security branches of the infamous regime. Everyone found it incredibly strange that an American was there, even more so that I would stay in such a rough environment just to gain access to the country. It is safe to say that both Yaz and I were under investigation.
Although this had many scary, worrisome, and frustrating aspects to it, the officials did not treat me badly. After a few days of sitting at the border some even extended extreme kindness. We were lent a blanket and a coat to help stay warm in the brutally cold nights, and given some fresh fruit to eat as well.
This reminds me of the duality of humans. Some took their power in the government and did terrible things; torture, extortion, murder... many more were just normal people though. As I live here under the rule of a new government, I find comfort in the fact that Syrian hospitality and understanding is indeed a prevalent trait of the citizens here.
People have lived through 14 years of war. Extreme sanctions. Poverty. A delicate balance of tribal politics that threaten to throw everything into ruin when not handled with tact. This has led to red lines that people just do not cross here in the open. Rules that are not written but everyone understands. So, naturally all of this applies to the new government as well.
It sounds scary to say that I'm staying in a country where the officials are still largely labeled as part of a terrorist organization by most of the first world... They are just people though, and what they will do has every opportunity to be positive for Syria and its place in the world. I feel optimistic; in my time here I've been just as safe and respected as everyone else is. I hope things keep getting better, that Syrians are given a chance to recover and rebuild this diverse country.
