This was a challenge that kind of crept up on us but left me wanting to go back for more.
Every year, a friend and I go cycling for up to a week somewhere in Thailand during the cool season. We've been doing it for 14 years now, I think. Phetchabun was one province we hadn't been to that looked promising. I was looking forward to a couple of National Parks that we would visit but every Thai person who heard about the trip said something about "Phu Thap Boek" always with a grin, shake of the head or look of disbelief. I did not fully understand why until a couple of days before our trip when I zoomed in a little closer on GoogleEarth and saw the road wriggling its way up the mountainside like a frantic worm.
Even closer inspection revealed an 18km continuous ascent which was concertinaed into something that looked much shorter on maps thanks to all the switchbacks and its sheer steepness. It is a fairly minor road so hadn't stood out but is a major challenge. Everybody else in the country seemed to know about it and were impressed by our apparent confidence, which was purely due to our ignorance.
GoogleEarth screenshot with the route highlighted
Both of us had done a little training for the trip but just in the central plains region where the only climbs we have to do are over bridges. A quick conference to re-plan and Phu Thap Boek was given the respect it deserved. We allowed a whole day to enjoy the climb properly without time pressure.
Originally, we had chosen the week just after New Year without appreciating that the holidays would run into the following weekend. To keep things flexible for the unexpected we never book accommodation ahead but this meant that it might be hard to find somewhere to stay and that we ought to take a tent plus sleeping bags and mats. Combine that extra weight with our solid and heavy touring bikes and this really was going to test us.
We spent the night at the bottom of the mountain and set off reasonably early in the chill of one of Thailand's coldest snaps for many years. It didn't take long to warm up. The first third of the Phu Thap Boek ascent is just there to lull you into a false sense of confidence. It's a constant climb but gradual with nice wide sweeping curves. Then the gradient increases, those hairpins bends begin and the legs start burning.
Getting ready to go
Strategically placed on many of these sharp bends were photographers snapping all the passing cars with banners inviting the occupants to purchase the images on-line. Some of them took pictures of us but I never checked out the results knowing that I don't look my best with a red-faced, sweaty grimace.
At times there were convoys of up to ten vehicles together which was a pain as we really wanted to be able to take the steepest curves on the outside but that would sometimes put us against the traffic flow so for our own safety we struggled up the inside of those tight little b*****d curves as best we could. I should perhaps also point out that this was in the week before my 60th birthday. Younger legs would probably have coped better but I was surprised that all the way up we didn't meet a single other cyclist.
At times a bit too much traffic
We stopped for breaks often and dived at the first little coffee shop we found. The owner had only opened a few weeks earlier and struggled to keep her chairs from blowing away in the outdoor setting but had a lovely view and got her first on-line review from us.
First coffee stop under a rain tree
I know we also stopped at the second coffee shop we came to but I have no recollection what it was like. I'm sure I enjoyed it as these stops are always a pleasure having been so well-earned.
The view back down but most of the climb still looms
One of the many simple but pleasant refreshment stops
And so it went on, slowly grinding our way upwards. One feature of this route is that for most of the way the road is clearly visible ahead all the way to the summit thanks to the increasing number of small-rooms-with-great-view for rent that line it. To me the top always seemed so close and yet...so much higher up. It drew closer at slightly less than snail's pace.
As we neared the end of the climb in mid-afternoon we started thinking about finding somewhere to stay for the night. The first two places were full and I started to wonder if I would have the energy to put up a tent but luckily a short way down a side road we found a good place with space for us. It also gave us a great view that included being able to see much of the upper section of the road we had just cycled up. Sitting there with a beer in hand trying to work out where we had stopped or which were the toughest bits was such a satisfying pleasure. Gave me a real sense of achievement. But then the sun dipped behind the mountain and the temperature plummetted sending us inside for a very early night's sleep.
...and relax, made it!
One last look at the route down below before bed
The next day our route carried on into a National Park and down the other, gentler, side of the mountain so we did not get to try the Phu Thap Boek descent. However, even on this good quality surface with so much traffic on the road I don't think it would have been much fun. But it has left me with a plan to return in a quieter period with less luggage and perhaps some new brakes for the downhill charge. Then I'll just be a smiling blur in those photographers' pictures.
We'll meet again!
