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The Accidental History of the Strawberry Tart
Nothing epitomizes summer quite like a strawberry tart, a delightful dessert that has a rich and somewhat surprising history. Had it not been for an 18th century French spy's blunder, we might not have the luscious strawberries we enjoy today. In this culinary journey, we explore the evolution of strawberries through time, all while preparing a traditional tart dating back to the reign of King Henry VIII.
King Henry VIII and His Love for Strawberries
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Henry VIII had an undeniable fondness for strawberries, even utilizing strawberry juice as a treatment for his open leg ulcer—an intriguing culinary footnote in his reign. While our focus is on gastronomy rather than medical history, it’s reflective of how integral strawberries were to life and health in that era. The tart recipe we follow is from the year 1545, documented in A Proper New Book of Cookery. This recipe calls for straining strawberries with egg yolks and breadcrumbs, sweetened with sugar and butter, creating what resembles a strawberry custard rather than the modern expectations of a tart.
The Fruit of the Past
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It's interesting to note that in the 16th century, strawberries were not the plump, oversized fruit we see in grocery stores today. Instead, they were much smaller, comparable in size to blackberries, yet possessing a distinctly sweeter flavor. These wild strawberries flourished in wooded areas and were aptly described in Old English as “streawberige,” leading to the modern name we know today. In fact, the German word for strawberry, “erdbeere,” translates to "earth berry," echoing the fruit's humble origins.
A Culinary Journey
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As we prepare the tart, modern strawberries take the place of their wild counterparts, but the essence of the dessert remains true to its roots. This recipe necessitates a pound of hulled strawberries, egg yolks, breadcrumbs, sugar, and butter. The strawberries are mashed and strained, combined with other ingredients to create a filling that is then baked in a crust made from flour, butter, egg yolks, and optional saffron.
Blind baking the crust is crucial to avoid a soggy bottom, and after some meticulous preparation, the filling is introduced and baked once again, allowing it to puff and set.
The Bigger Strawberry: French Royalty and Their Ties
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While Henry VIII savored strawberries, the French monarchy harbored an even deeper obsession with this fruit. Historical records reveal that French kings cultivated strawberries for centuries before Henry's reign. King Louis XIV, in particular, is noted for dedicating extensive plots in Versailles for strawberry cultivation and even developing greenhouses to extend their harvest.
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The backdrop of this glorified berry holds a story twisted in espionage and unintentional horticultural advancement. Amedee Francois Frenzier, a spy under Louis XIV's orders, embarked on a mission to the New World. This endeavor not only yielded valuable intelligence on Spanish territories but also introduced the French to larger strawberry variants growing in Chile, which Frenzier mistakenly collected and cultivated.
The Unexpected Twist of Plant Breeding
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Frenzier’s ultimate mistake lies in the fact that he collected only female strawberry plants. Without the male counterparts necessary for fertilization, these plants provided no fruit for nearly 50 years. The breakthrough came when Antoine Nicolas Duchesne, a young gardener at Versailles, observed that planting the Chilean strawberries alongside compatible male varieties created the larger strawberries that the French had been yearning for. This led to the development of the well-known garden strawberry, or fragaria ananassa, known today as one of the primary strawberries found in markets.
The Tart Experience
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Arriving back at the kitchen, the completed strawberry tart embodies the rich flavors of its past. Post-baking, the filling exhibits a smooth, airy texture accented by the sweetness of concentrated strawberries—a worthy homage to generations of culinary history. The crust provides a delightful buttery base, and while saffron is not necessary for flavor, it offers a picturesque color typical of that time.
Interestingly, historical recipes often utilized strawberry leaves, though modern accessibility to them as an ingredient is rare. Thus, while we indulge in the sweet fruit itself, we can still appreciate the lore surrounding these beloved berries.
Conclusion
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As we savor the fruit of our labor, we must recognize the fortuitous turns in history that brought us the big, delightful strawberries we know today. Thanks to an 18th century spy's miscalculation, the humble strawberry has transformed into a staple of summer desserts.
With the influence of various cultures, historical figures, and even a bit of misadventure, the strawberry tart not only embodies rich flavors but also a whimsical story deeply rooted in time. So whether you’re planning to visit a local café or simply making this tart at home, take a moment to appreciate the journey that brought these delectable berries to your table.