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The Culinary Journey through the Spanish Inquisition: Recreating 16th Century Adafina
Throughout history, food has served as a reflection of cultural identity, adaptation, and survival. In this light, certain recipes carry with them not just flavors but narratives that speak of resilience. One such recipe is adafina, a traditional stew with deep roots in Jewish culinary practice during a time marked by religious turmoil—the Spanish Inquisition.
The Origins of Adafina
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Adafina is a dish whose origin can be traced back to 16th century Toledo, Spain. This dish is mentioned in a trial transcript from 1523 featuring Blanca Ramirez, wherein a servant outlines the meticulous process of preparing this stew. According to the transcript, the stew was enriched with ingredients like chickpeas, fava beans, and the richest cuts of meat, slow-cooked overnight. If seasonal vegetables were available, eggplant was added, alongside aromatic spices such as dried coriander, caraway, cumin, pepper, and onion. Chard or radish leaves rounded out the dish to finish it just before cooking.
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This recipe reflects the Sephardic Jewish tradition, emphasizing its connection to a community that flourished for centuries, only to face adversity amid religious shifts. The preparation of adafina during the Inquisition speaks volumes about the intersections of food, faith, and identity.
Cultural Context: The Jewish Community and the Inquisition
The narrative surrounding adafina cannot be detached from the broader context of the Spanish Inquisition. Following centuries of relative peace with the Jewish population, the summer of 1391 marked a significant change with horrific violence and forced conversions, leading to the rise of a group known as Conversos—those who converted to Catholicism, whether willingly or under duress.
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By the late 15th and early 16th centuries, under the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella, concerns about the sincerity of these conversions led to the establishment of the Spanish Inquisition. The inquisitors were often relentless, employing various tactics to root out those suspected of maintaining Jewish practices. Edicts dictated everything from dietary restrictions to household conduct, creating an atmosphere of fear and distrust.
Eating in Forbidden Times
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The preparation of adafina held significant importance not only for its culinary qualities but for its adherence to Jewish Sabbath laws, which prohibited cooking on the Sabbath itself. The tradition of preparing this stew in advance allowed families to observe these laws while maintaining their culinary heritage. Given the inquisitorial scrutiny, aligning daily practices with customs that highlighted connections to the Jewish past could have severe consequences.
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Ingredients from Jewish cuisine, such as eggplant and dried meats like cecina de vaca, became synonymous with suspicion. Convictions often hinged on an individual's dietary choices or even preferences, leading to heartbreaking betrayals from those close to the accused. Cooking became a perilous venture for many, forcing families to adapt their plates to avoid attracting unwanted attention.
Recreating Adafina Today
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In honoring the recipe of adafina, it became essential not only to gather the right ingredients but also to understand the cultural significance behind each one. The preparation involves boiled chickpeas and fava beans, fatty beef, and a medley of spices that evoke a historical palette, all mingling together in a slow cook conducive to flavor development. The dish, while reflecting its roots in the Sephardic tradition, transcends history to present a unique culinary experience even today.
Here’s a summary of the ingredients used in the preparation of adafina:
1 cup dried fava beans
1 cup dried chickpeas
2.5 pounds of fatty beef (or udder)
Olive oil, salt, onion, and beef broth or water
Ground spices: coriander, cumin, caraway
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- Fresh vegetables: eggplants and chard (or radish leaves)
The cooking process encapsulates a remarkable sense of time, calling for the beans and meat to simmer in a pot and, ultimately, become an overnight dish. This slow method solidifies the stew’s tender ingredients into a harmonious blend.
A Glimpse into History
The narrative of adafina cannot simply conclude with its flavor or cooking method; it embeds itself into the fabric of Jewish history during a dark chapter. The poetry and sentiments of those who lived through the Inquisition reveal the struggles of identity and acceptance amidst relentless persecution.
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One poignant quote captures the complexity of faith and belonging during these times, reflecting a Converso's despair in trying to fit into a society that still marked them as different:
"I recited the creed and adored pots of thick bacon… yet I could never kill the mark of Converso."
Food today serves as a way to transcend history, offer respect to ancestral journeys, and connect people across centuries. The experience of recreating adafina is more than merely cooking; it is an act of remembrance, reverence, and resilience.
Conclusion
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As we savor the unique flavors of adafina, we must also hold space for its past—the stories of those who prepared and cherished this dish against the backdrop of the Spanish Inquisition. In doing so, we not only honor the culinary heritage but also the enduring spirit of a culture that sought to thrive against all odds.
Now, in the spirit of culinary exploration and understanding, we take a bite not only for ourselves but for those who came before us, whose diligent efforts and rich traditions continue to inspire our kitchens today.