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The Culinary Journey of Barbecuing in History
Barbecuing is synonymous with summer gatherings, and one of the delightful ways to usher in the warm season is with a backyard barbecue. In a fascinating culinary exploration, I embarked on a barbecue adventure in my backyard, whipping up a molasses-covered pork shoulder using a recipe that dates back to 1839.
A Kitchenless Summer Adventure
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With my kitchen currently out of commission, I seized the opportunity to explore outdoor cooking. Barbecue is a term that bears multiple meanings; it can be a noun, a verb, and even an adjective. While some purists argue that barbecue should involve slow cooking away from an intense heat source, many people conflate it with grilling. Early cookbooks even included barbecue recipes intended for indoor cooking, which raises the question: what defines barbecue?
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The oldest recipe I could find corresponds with traditional outdoor cooking methods. It is taken from The Kentucky Housewife by Mrs. Lettice Bryan, and it describes preparing barbecued shoat — a term that refers to a young pig that has been weaned. The process outlined in this 1839 recipe involves seasoning the meat with salt, pepper, and molasses, allowing it to marinate, and then cooking it slowly over clear coals for several hours.
Preparing the Pork: A Modern Take
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Though I couldn't procure a shoat, I decided that pork shoulder would work just as well for making pulled pork. The preparation was quite straightforward: rub the salt and pepper mixture onto the meat, layer it with molasses, and let it rest in the fridge. Unlike traditional methods, my temporary kitchen situation limited my rinsing techniques, illustrating the challenges of outdoor cooking.
The barbecue needed to be a low and slow affair, requiring hours of sustained heat. I set up my grill with pecan wood and coal, ensuring it would burn for an extended duration. Maintaining the ideal cooking temperature presence, keeping it between 225°F and 250°F, was labor-intensive, demanding regular attention.
The Secrets of Barbecue History
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Discussing the history of barbecue is as layered as the cooking styles themselves. Because various cultures have cooked food over hot coals since ancient times, establishing a definition for what constitutes barbecue can be challenging. Linguistic theories suggest that the term "barbecue" is derived not from the French phrase meaning "beard to tail," as some suggest, but from the Arawak word "barbacoa," referring instead to scaffolding used for guarding corn.
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The first English use of the term “barbecue” can be traced back to 1661. However, it was steeped in unfortunate historical associations. European settlers struggled with barbecue's gastronomic appeal, cringing at its ties to native populations and the fact that enslaved Africans often did the cooking. Over time, despite controversy, barbecue became ingrained in American culture.
Barbecues evolved, particularly in the American South, where Fourth of July gatherings became a staple. High-profile figures such as George Washington were known to host barbecue events, which eventually intertwined with political expression in the region.
The Backyard Barbecue Revolution
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The transformation of barbecue from a public spectacle to a backyard staple began with the innovation of charcoal briquettes in the late 19th century. This paving the way for individual grilling experiences was further accelerated by the post-World War II baby boom and the rise of Tiki culture, signaling a demand for backyard festivities.
George Stephen revolutionized the barbecue scene in the 1950s with the invention of the Weber kettle grill, bringing practical and efficient grilling techniques to family settings.
A Deep Dive into Flavor: The Sauce
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Interestingly, the 1839 recipe for barbecued pork does not specify a barbecue sauce but recommends serving the meat with wine and melted butter. However, to complement my pork, I prepared an early version of a barbecue sauce — a vinegar-based concoction recorded in Housekeeping in Old Virginia from 1879, involving ingredients like chopped onions, red pepper, and various spices mixed with apple cider vinegar to allow flavors to meld.
The Final Tasting
Finally, after a long day of cooking, the moment arrived for tasting the smoked and shredded pork. Its tender sweetness, highlighted by molasses, and a hint of salt made for a delicious experience. The accompanying sauce, packed with flavor and a touch of spice, proved to be a worthy partner.
Seeking New Horizons
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By venturing into my backyard amidst the joyful chaos of birds playing overhead, this cooking experience illustrated how food and culture intertwine beautifully. While I'm yet to perfect the outdoor cooking experience, the process itself reinforces my appreciation for an age-old culinary tradition that brings communities together.
Thank you to my sponsor, NordVPN, as I immersed myself in this journey, ensuring online safety while exploring rich culinary histories. See you next week, possibly again in the backyard, with more historical recipes to share!