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The History of Hot Wings: From Deviled Bones to Buffalo Wings
When it comes to iconic American snacks, few can rival the popularity of chicken wings. Often associated with bars and game day gatherings, they're typically served spicy and saucy, but their lineage goes much deeper than many might think. In this exploration of hot wings, we journey back to the 19th century, where a seemingly forgotten version of this favorite exists—deviled bones.
What Are Deviled Bones?
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The concept of deviled bones is rooted in humble beginnings. Invented long before the modern hot wing hit the scene, deviled bones were a way to use leftover pieces of meat from joints of poultry. As mentioned in Alexis Soyer’s 1854 book 'Shilling Cookery for the People,' deviled bones involved taking any leftover bones still with meat, seasoning them with mustard, cayenne, and mushroom ketchup, and then broiling them until brown.
"Devilled" food in the 18th and 19th centuries referred to dishes that were highly seasoned or spiced, making deviled bones related by name to other deviled dishes like deviled ham and deviled eggs.
The Not-So-Mysterious Origins
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While a quick search might attribute the invention of hot wings to Buffalo, New York in 1964, this is far from the truth. The use of chicken wings has deep historical roots, predating the Buffalo wing phenomenon by over a century. Chicken wings were often the least desirable cut of meat, largely used to create stocks for soups, or discarded as they held minimal meat.
By the mid-19th century, chicken wings began appearing on menus in establishments like Buffalo's Clarendon Hotel, hinting at the region's long-standing relationship with this specific poultry cut, even if they weren't served in the now-familiar spicy style.
The Evolution of Hot Wings
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Fast forward over a hundred years, and we land in 1961 when John Young opened a restaurant in Buffalo. Growing up in a poor family, Young had limited access to chicken cuts beyond the wings, which he began frying and serving with his unique sauce. His chiming success would pave the way for the popularity of hot wings as we know them today.
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In the heat of this culinary evolution, the invention of the Buffalo wing is often credited to the Anchor Bar in 1964. The tales behind their invention involve different members of the Bellisimo family and centers around late-night cravings mixed with local customs of the time. Each version tells of the moment when chicken wings were transformed from an overlooked cut to a revered menu item, deep-fried and slathered in a spicy sauce made from Frank's Red Hot and melted butter.
The Birth of Buffalo Sauce
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The wing's transformation was not solely about the cooking method; it marked the birth of a distinct flavor profile that would become synonymous with Buffalo wings. The original recipe from the Anchor Bar did not embellish chicken wings with the heat seen in modern renditions, nor did they initially serve them with celery and blue cheese dressing, which are now staples of the experience.
Interestingly, Buffalo Wild Wings, a popular chain today, wasn't founded in Buffalo. Established in 1982 in Cleveland, Ohio, it further solidified the chicken wing's place in American dining, serving not just wings but a vast array of dipping sauces and sides.
Rediscovering Deviled Bones
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After exploring the history, the attempt to recreate deviled bones brings us full circle to the simplicity of the dish's preparation. Using leftover cooked chicken wings, they can be seasoned and broiled to achieve a crispy exterior, maintaining a connection to their historical roots while inviting modern palates to explore this lesser-known version of hot wings.
The flavor profile achieved through the application of mustard, cayenne, and mushroom ketchup may differ from what is expected of today's spicy wings, yet it serves not just as a recipe but a story that highlights the culinary ingenuity of the past.
A Call to Action
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With the reinvention of deviled bones, it's time to perhaps rebrand our bar orders. Imagine asking for a plate of deviled bones paired with a fine wine rather than a standard basket of wings. As we continue to navigate through culinary histories, let’s bring awareness to the rich fabric of food traditions that often gets overshadowed by their modern adaptations.
As you savor your next plate of chicken wings, whether they’re deviled bones or spicy Buffalo wings, take a moment to appreciate the layers of history, ingenuity, and evolution that each bite encapsulates. And next time someone asks what deviled bones are, you’ll have the perfect answer ready—the hot wings of the 19th century.
Bon appétit!