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The Evolution of the Croissant: A Historical Journey Through Time
When one thinks of the quintessential French delicacy, the croissant immediately comes to mind. Its buttery, flaky layers have become synonymous with French pastry culture, but the croissant as we know it today is the result of a complex evolution over centuries. Remarkably, both the butter and the signature flaky texture are relatively recent innovations in the croissant's long history.
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In a recent episode of Tasting History, hosted by Max Miller, viewers were treated not just to the delights of the modern croissant but also to a deep dive into its historical roots. Sponsored by Wildgrain, a subscription service that delivers fresh baked goods, Miller's exploration revealed the true history of the croissant, from its original beginnings to its current status as a culinary icon.
A Glimpse into the Past: The Croissant’s Early Origins
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The croissant's journey begins long before it graced the tables of French cafés. It traces back to the sweet Viennese kipfel, which in the 1850s was first classified as a "pain de fantaisie," a playful pastry made without butter. According to French chemist Anselme Payen’s 1853 description, the original croissant was nothing like its modern iteration. Made with flour, eggs, water, and sometimes milk, this early version was simpler and lacked the complexities of lamination that define today’s croissants.
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Miller decided to recreate this 19th-century croissant, eschewing butter altogether—a stark contrast to the hours of lamination needed for today’s pastries. While modern recipes require meticulous folding and rolling of butter-loaded dough that can take up to 24 hours, the simpler dough of the past could be made in a fraction of the time.
The Recipe: Crafting the 1850s Croissant
Using historical recipes, Miller detailed the ingredients needed for this archaic version: active dry yeast, water, milk, flour, salt, and eggs. By preparing a sponge as a preferment, the dough rises with minimal effort. This practicality and efficiency in baking highlights how much the culinary world has evolved, moving away from complex procedures toward convenience.
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Once the dough was ready, it was shaped into triangles, a traditional method that remains familiar today. After a short rise, they were brushed with an egg wash and baked until golden, yielding a soft, bread-like result—so different from the crispy, intricate flakes of contemporary croissants.
The Myths: The Croissant's Origin Stories
Yet, as with all beloved foods, the croissant carries with it a plethora of myths regarding its origins. One prevalent myth suggests that the crescent shape of the croissant is a nod to the Siege of Vienna in 1683, where victorious bakers supposedly shaped their pastries into the crescent emblem of the Ottoman flag. However, research shows little evidence supporting this tale.
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Instead, what we know is that the kipfel, with its crescent shape, was popular in Vienna long before these legendary battles. And while Marie Antoinette's arrival in France might have ushered in some Viennese baking traditions, the true journey of the croissant began in earnest with the baker August Zang in the mid-19th century.
Zang: The Man Who Brought the Kipfel to Paris
August Zang, who traveled to Paris with the goal of elevating the city's bread quality, opened the Boulangerie Viennoise in 1838. His bakers crafted the kipfel now known as the croissant, which quickly won Parisian hearts. Interestingly, Zang's techniques, which included introducing steam-injected ovens, improved the quality of bread production and set the stage for the croissant's transformation.
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By the late 19th century, the term "croissant" began to gain traction as bakers in Paris dropped the kipfel name in favor of one that described the crescent shape. The croissant's popularity skyrocketed, becoming a staple in bakeries throughout Paris and eluding any signs of decline, even sparking a near-bakery strike in 1891 over its significance in the daily life of Parisians.
Conclusion: The Croissant Today
Today, the croissant is a hallmark of French baking, beloved around the world, often filled with various sweet and savory delights, sometimes even unrecognizably moved away from its crescent form. As we savor this iconic pastry, it is fascinating to realize its journey—from a simple bread made in the 1850s to a culinary masterpiece defined by its buttery, flaky layers.
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Wherever one finds themselves enjoying a croissant—be it in quaint Parisian bakers or local cafes—it's essential to appreciate the intricate history that has shaped this beloved treat. As Miller encourages, explore the allure of both modern and historical croissants, reveling in the flavors and stories they bring to life through time.